Sam Villa says the secret to cutting crowns is in the degree of length. Natural growth patterns take over in shorter length hair and longer hair has more weight, so the natural growth pattern is minimized. Here’s the secret—if you want a crown to pop, cut it short, and if you don’t, leave it longer for more control. Need a longer style to pop? Cut the interior of the crown and leave the top layer long. Another secret is to compress hair at the base of an under-layer with the Sam Villa TEXTUR texturizing iron to create volume and drop the top layer of the crown hair over it. The texture at the base creates beautiful natural-looking fullness at the crown…a secret we can all be in on. See this technique on video!

Need a new way to update your client’s style? Look to the past! Injecting a little bit of ’60s flair into an updo can be super chic and modern. We love the classic French twist sported by Christina Hendricks’ character Joan Holloway in Mad Men. To recreate this look, the pros at Cricket suggest this how-to: Clip away a small section of hair on either side of the face to be pulled back later. Divide the remaining hair into two horizontal sections, then divide the top section again into two more horizontal sections. Beginning in the bottom portion of these smaller sections, tease the hair using the Cricket Amped Up Teasing Brush. Spray with hairspray and tease the section forward to create a bird’s nest, then secure with bobby pins. Repeat the process on the top section, layering the hair over the bird’s nest shape then pin in place. Pull the front side sections smoothly and tautly around and pin just underneath the bump. This helps hold the elevated hair in place and prevent spillage. Take the remaining hair and pull together as if creating a ponytail, then twist and pin tuck into the rest of the hair from the top down. See this entire step-by-step online!

Cropped cuts are always a big request come summertime, but creating multidimensional color on those short strands can be troublesome. BTC Facebook BFFs to the rescue! Here are some of their best go-to color strategies:

Anth Thomas: “I like to color my base then with a wide-tooth comb, push the hair in the opposite direction of how you plan to style it, apply thick lightener in balayage-style, then tone.”

Jennifer Schaefer Lovell: “Use a mascara-like wand and hand paint the highlights. That way, you can make some strands chunkier than others.”

Chris Knight: “Lighten the base color to a Level 8 or 9, then heavily balayage the rest with a thick powder lightener that won’t run.” Take care of summer blondes—get a FREE Keratin Complex Blondeshell Essentials Kit!

Hair extensions can mean big business for salons, plus they’re a great option for adding low-commitment, trendy styles to clients. Want your extension work to shine brighter than a Fourth of July firework? Follow these tips from Great Lengths Technical Director Celeste Lucero:

Talk it Through—Extension consultations are critical and they must be thorough. This is often an emotional decision and a significant investment. Be sure your client understands the service and care completely, and be sure you understand exactly what she wants and expects.

Color First—Always pre-color extensions before you apply them to the head.

Pick Your Pattern—Extensions are always placed in a pattern, i.e. a triangular pattern. Determine the pattern you will follow before you begin applying the extensions. Learn more when you take a Great Lengths Certification Class!

Her beau’s famous coif may have been named one of the “most influential cuts of 2011,” but Selena Gomez is enjoying a little time in the spotlight with her colorful new look. Right before she went on her South African tour, the pop star stopped by Nine Zero One Salon in West Hollywood, CA, to have some multicolored extensions added to her ‘do. “The color selection for Selena was based on her wardrobe for her tour,” says Nikki Lee, the salon’s co-owner. “She wanted to do something fun and different without damaging her hair. The Great Lengths extensions we added in were perfect for this!” When it comes to selecting color for a look like this, Nikki says there are a couple rules to consider. “Don’t choose colors based on your client’s existing shade of hair,” she says. “Instead, make sure to choose colors that will complement her skin tone and go well with her wardrobe.” Also, select shades from the same color family. “Selena decided on all jewel tone colors. If you do too many colors that don’t go with each other, your trendy new hair is no longer trendy—it’s tacky! I wouldn’t recommend adding in more than three colors,” Nikki says. Watch the highlights from the Great Lengths Challenge Stylist Contest!

The haircolor trend springing up this season? Pastel blondes! 2011 saw a haircolor revolution take place with more and more celebrities coloring their locks in every shade of the rainbow, and in true spring fashion, the shades are softening up into pretty powdery shades. According to the trendsetters at Schwarzkopf Professional, all kinds of blondes are having a moment this spring and summer—from pure and decadent golden honeys and ambers to soft blush tones. This look, from the Essential Looks Collection for 2012, was created using Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Premium Performance Lightener and BLONDME Toning Creams in Ice, Strawberry and Caramel. See more blonde inspirations for spring/summer!

Long-locked ladies like Maya Rudolph, Stacy Keibler and Kelly Osbourne were beside themselves (hah!) at the Oscars, opting for stunning side-swept waves and curls. With its popularity on the red carpet, this over-the-shoulder look is sure to be a hit come bridal and prom season because it’s a great way to show off a gown while still making a strong beauty statement. To create this Oscar-worthy wave, apply a styling cream to damp hair from roots to ends. Blowdry the hair with a round brush to ensure a smooth, polished finish. Once the hair is completely dry, create a deep side part. Starting at the back of the head, use a styling iron like the domed FHI Heat Platform Iron to twist sections of hair all in one direction. Pull all the curled hair over the shoulder opposite from the deep side part to complete the modern yet Old Hollywood glam style. Check out the Platform series irons from FHI Heat!

Everyone’s doing the lob—a longer, swingy version of the bob. To create a quick, perfectly beveled lob line, Alterna Global Creative Director Michael Shaun Corby suggests this cool technique using the Alterna-tive Styling Band: Begin by applying Alterna Bamboo Style Flexible Control Gel to damp hair, then blow dry. “Freestyle produces a ‘raincoat’ of protection against humidity,” says Michael Shaun. Next, comb all strands with a small-tooth comb. Double or triple the Alterna-tive Styling Band (depending on the size of your client’s neck) and slip it over her head, letting it fall loosely. Gently lift the hair just above the band with your comb to create the bevel shape. Angle the shear so the lower blade is pointed upward and the top blade is pointed downward, then cut the hair from side to side underneath the band. Enter to WIN the entire Alterna Bamboo Style Collection!

Last week on American Idol, the top 10 boys and girls performed, Steven Tyler teased Jennifer Lopez about a wardrobe malfunction and Randy Jackson said the word “yo” approximately 322 times. All jokes aside, J.Lo looked fab as usual and her haircolor made our hearts swoon. Want to recreate the look on clients begging for her balayage? Welcome to the stage Doug Macintosh, Color Director at John Sahag Workshop. “This shade bridges the gap between blonde and brunette,” he shares, “so it’s an appealing look for a lot of women.” To get the look on a Natural Level 5 client, flash lighten the base with Wella Koleston Perfect 10/1 + 30-volume then rinse, shampoo, condition and dry the hair. Next, foil in Clairol BW2 Powder Bleach + 20-volume, starting at the ears and working up, creating fairly large weaves in the foils. Work through the top and crown areas. Process to a pale blonde; remove the foils, shampoo, rinse and towel dry. Apply Redken Shades EQ 1 oz. Clear + 1 oz. 09NB + 2 oz. SEQ Processing Solution at the sink, process 5 minutes and rinse. Get another color formula and how-to for Jennifer’s balayage!

With prom and wedding season closing in, it’s time to fine-tune your updo game—and upstyle guru Martin Parsons is here to coach! First, he suggests you section according to thickness: “If the hair is skinny, create a larger triangular section, subdivide that section into smaller sections and tease the base of each subsection. If hair is thick and heavy, create 1-inch sections and tease at the base to create a foundation for securing the pins without producing too much volume.” Next, it’s time to tease: “Instead of pushing the comb forward when teasing, push it down the hair shaft then pull back. It makes it easier to smooth the hair,” he says. Finally, it’s all in the finish: “Dry spray is the best for updos. Test your spray by misting it into the air; if the ‘cloud’ drops, it’s too heavy. Remember, when you apply hairspray, avoid aiming the nozzle directly at the hair. Instead direct the spray past the section. Count to five then give the spray time to settle, and finally, run the smooth part of the comb along the section for a spectacular finish,” he says. Learn from top educators when you attend International Beauty Show NYC, April 22-24! Register NOW!